Hike through Tskhvandiri and other exotic places of Georgia - Chuberi and Svaneti

Tskhvandiri Lakes

"Alaska" of Georgia for tourists is the western part of Svaneti. Chuberi and Haishi are untouched by travelers, there are numerous hiking trails, beautiful lakes, unspoiled nature and territories. Yes, you will have to put more effort to see all the beauty of the local nature and the local villages are less impressive than Hadishi or Ushguli villages, but you can meet hospitable people and experience what these incredibly beautiful regions have to offer.

But you will have to rely not on a horse or car, but on your own feet. Horses will not be able to carry your luggage here, and you will really test your capabilities, after which you will get a well-deserved view of paradise and rest. The trip takes a total of 6 days, 4 for the trip itself and 2 for transportation. You can also visit Mestia on the 6th day and hike the quieter trails in the more popular Upper Svaneti area.

Chuberi
There are many beautiful lakes in the Chuberi area. The stunning lakes of Tshwandiri can be reached from the village of Kvemo Memuli, the location of 3 beautiful lakes and a region with many magnificent views, unforgettable panoramas and untouched terrain almost without tourists.

The area is very close to Mount Elbrus, and the main Caucasian peaks are also nearby, so you can appreciate the beautiful view of the glaciers here. The Nenskra Gorge itself is very spectacular: a beautiful giant river flows into the gorge through tall pine forests where bears roam, but this is all changing because of the construction of the Nenskra hydropower plant, so those traveling by car may not see anything.

How to get to Kvemo Memuli village by car - Entering Svaneti from Zugdidi side, you pass the center of Haisi community. Soon, in Inguri, there will be a bridge on the left with a sign saying: "Chuberi" (the road to Mestia will remain on the right). This road also leads to the Kodori Gorge. The road used to be terrible, but now they are building the Nenskei hydropower plant in the gorge (which could be one of your destinations, as Memuli is near the dam under construction) behind the village of Memuli, so the road is suitable even for a sedan.

Heading to the village of Kvemo Memuli, you pass the center of the village Chuberi Kvemo Margi, from where you can hike to the Utviri Pass. You will then drive through the mineral water spring, from where you can soon turn left to the main border guard post in Chuberi, where you can get a border permit if you didn't get one in Tbilisi.

We recommend driving to Tbilisi (with the help of your guide), as you may be stopped here for a long time. Then you will pass by the place of residence of the builders of the Nenskra hydroelectric power plant, after that there will be the last village Tita, and after Tita you will cross the bridge over the river Nenskra and after about 3 km you will reach Kvemo Memuli.

There you will find the last border guard station where you can show your entry passes. You can leave your car there. Public transport to Mestia can only take you to the turn to Chuberi, which is quite far from the start of the hike, so it is better to take a car there or hitchhike.

Day 1 (first camping day)

Hike towards Tshvandiri - Stairway to the sky (7-8 hours): From the border post the old wide road continues 300-400 m, after which you will see the riverbed on the slope of the Tskhvandiri ridge.

You have to go up the riverbed from this road and start the hike. The route is marked with stones, it will take you at least 4 hours to go all the way up - 1200 m vertically, as if you were going up the stairs to the top of a hundred-storey building, or as if it were a stairway to the sky.

The route is designed for hikers (no need to climb) and is not very difficult (no sharp inclines), but some sections of the riverbed are dry, some are watery, some are flat, some are "waterfalls", so sometimes you will have to look for detours. We recommend checking the forecast and not planning a trip in heavy rain, as this can turn a small stream of water into monstrous currents and even lead to landslides. This route can only be hiked in August, when the mountains are dry.

At this time you will see many green flowers and natural beauties. Do not try to go down through the forest, it is impassable because of the low bushes around the trees. At the end, the stream bed becomes steeper, and soon you will see a 10-meter-high rock (similar to a waterfall), after which you should head to the slope on the right (the hike along the river bed is over).

You will pass small rocks, and then you will have to climb a tougher section - a steep grassy slope. From the creek bed you still have to climb 200 m vertically, and at 2400-2500 m you will have a beautiful view of the Nenskra Gorge. You can even shout with happiness that the arduous journey is over, and the local magnificent forests will echo with laughter in response. After climbing up, you will find a camping spot not far from the Tshwandiri Pass.

Tskhvandiri

Day 2

Heaven itself - Hike from the campsite (from the Tshwandiri Pass ) to the lakes (6-7 hours): You will continue up the slope to the right without losing altitude (there is also no beaten path here), you will cross several small streams. You need to find a passageway, as there are rocks in front of you that you cannot pass unless you are a climber.

If there is no fog, you will see the pass and you will find yourself below the pass by going straight down the slope. You will see one partially frozen lake already from the pass, which should be your next destination, and you will also see a snow-covered glacier.

It won't break beneath you and you don't need climbing gear, you just have to be careful and choose your route using your experience. Then you will see the ridge that lies between this glacial lake and the promised land of Tshwandiri Lakes.

You need to go down below this ridge, climb 50 m up a steep incline, and you are finally on the right track - follow it for 300-400 m and find your way around the ridge on the left side. You are now on the first lake of Tshwandiri, and it will be very easy to navigate between the first, second and third lakes of Tshwandiri.

Day 3

On the lakes (you can camp near the pass): You are already on another planet. In front of you is the main Caucasus Range, framed by the beautiful Dalari Gorge. The most beautiful and largest lake, which you will see third, is on the edge of the cliff. The water is surprisingly warm in the second and third lakes, unless you try to get close to the glacier.

The first lake is the most photogenic because of the mountain tops in the background. It is advisable to stop here on a relaxing day and spend a quiet day. You will have a beautiful view of Mt. Trapezia, Aguri Gorge and Dalari.

Below the Dalari Glacier you will see Lake Dalari, a rather large body of water. Incredible views of many peaks and glaciers will make your stay at the lakes unforgettable. The list of peaks includes: Elbrus - 5661 m, Donguzorun (4452 m), Shtvaleri (3994 m), Trapeze (3988 m), Gwandra (3985 m), Aguri (3751 m), Maguashira (3853 m), Okrilistavi (3606 m) and others.

View to summits of Abhazia and Chuberi

Day 4

The way back: if you camped at the pass, you can go down to Memuli if you split the hike into 2 days or start very early and get to Kvemo Memuli in about 10 hours. It is so beautiful here that you will remember these views for the rest of your life - hopefully as beautiful in the sky as in the Tshwandiri Lakes area.

There are other interesting trails for hikers in Western Svaneti that offer incredible experiences. There are some wonderful places in the area off the beaten path, one of which is Lakamurash Toba - it is difficult to get to from Tobavarchili Lakes, but you can go up there from the side of Haishi. Climbing up the mountain slopes, waterfalls and descending from a very difficult pass, you will come to a small and majestic lake in which Elbrus is reflected.

View to summits Trapetsia and Aguri

Okroskali Lakes (Golden Waters) is another incredible hiking route on the road to the Ormeleti River Gorge. You can get there by jeep or other car with good cross-country ability, and you will get to the place, from where you can hike to the high and beautiful waterfall.

From the camp you can reach one of the most beautiful places in Georgia in one day - the lakes with "golden waters" are compared to the lakes of Tobavarchili (some claim they are more beautiful) and to most lakes in Abkhazia. Visiting the 2 lakes, which are separated from each other by snowy passes, you can climb the mountain and admire the view of the Tkvarcheli region, Abkhazia. This is one of the best routes if you want to see the beauty of Georgia and wildlife in a short time and remember the beautiful colors of the local lakes forever.

Okrostskali lake in the beginning of July

The next place is not between the main hikes of Georgia like the other 3 (Tskhvandiri Lakes, Okrosskali Lakes and Lakamurash Toba hikes), but at the intersection of the Caucasus mountains from west to east - you can go from Nenskra valley to Nakra valley and then continue towards Mazeri, Mestia and Ushguli. The process begins from the village of Mukhuri in the Kolkheti valley, then to Khaishi via the beautiful lakes of Tobavarchili.

okrostskali

After that you have the opportunity to go to Etzeri by car and go to Mazeri through the Baki Pass, then from Guli to Mestia and along the route Mestia-Ushguli. But you can go to the nearby Nenskra Valley and start hiking towards Mestia. You will need to walk for 2 days (possibly 1 day, but without a horse to carry the luggage will be difficult) from the village of Kvemo Margi to Chuberi (Nenskra valley) through the Utviri pass (2714) to the village of Nakra.

Crossing the river to reach the village of Zemo Magri, you will see several huts of Tobuldar shepherds at an altitude of 2000-2100 meters. Then you reach the Utviri Pass, from where you can reach a nearby lake (600 m), where it is not recommended to camp, but you can if you have no other choice.

Panoramas to bigger and smaller Okrostskali lakes in August

There are some more remote beautiful lakes that you don't have to visit. After 3-4 km from the pass you cross the Utviri River, where you will find other huts (you may be able to spend the night), and at some point you will follow the Utviri River and then over a small ridge and arrive in Nakra.

From Nakra it will take you 1 or 2 days to get to Iskari, depending on your abilities and whether you have a horse. Generally, this trip is less impressive than the Utviri hike and cannot compare to the lakes. The first day can be a bit boring, but you will pass through several villages and old churches.

First, a 10-kilometer dirt road leads to Tsaleri, then you continue towards Mestia, passing several villages: Kichuldashi, Paledi and Svipi. The Nakra-Etseri route is much more beautiful when you reach the incomparable heights and views here. The hiking route offers views of unspoiled nature, after which you will reach Iskari.

To get to the village of Katsakhi from Iskari, you have to cross a wooded area as well as a river (there may be a bridge there), and go down to Iskari and prepare for the real adventure towards Mazeri and Mestia.


We hope that we have managed to convince you that Western Svaneti offers many interesting hikes for tourists, which with proper planning will never disappoint travelers. Below are maps and GPS routes. Special thanks to Beso Chikvinidze, chief explorer of Tshvandiri lakes and author of photos, for inspiration.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

en_USEnglish
Close